Half-Square Triangles Revisited

This last week, I have been making a ton of quarter-square triangles. It is such a useful block, but also one that I find hard to make accurately. Of course, this block starts with a half-square triangle. I am always trying to find better ways to make the half-square triangle.
This time around I cut the tissue paper strips about 2" wide and drew a line down the middle. Then I placed the strip on top of the two squares that are stacked right sides together, matching up the line with two opposite corners of the fabric squares. Then I just sewed 1/4" away from both sides of the line. The paper acts as a great stabilizer. The stitching lines do not shrink or stretch the fabric. And it is easy to tear away the tissue paper after the square has been pressed.
It is much easier to draw a line on the paper than it is to draw a line on the fabric.
Give it a try, You may just like this method.

Sewing Border and Binding Strips Together

When I sew a long border or binding together, if possible, I like to use a bias seam. If the border is not too wide, say no more than 3”, a bias seam is less noticeable. Usually the eye is looking for a straight seam. If the border is any larger than 3”, too much extra fabric is needed and the seam tends to show up just as much as a straight seam. When piecing a binding together, whether a straight or bias binding, I like to use bias seaming because it offsets the seam, so there is not a thick spot where several layers of seams lie on top of each other. Lay the ends of the border or binding strips at right angles to each other, right sides together. Stitch a diagonal line from upper left corner of top piece to the intersection of both strips at lower right. Trim the seam to ¼” and press seam to one side. Continue adding all strips in this manner.

Pinning and Sewing a Pinwheel Intersection

After sewing and re-sewing what seemed like hundreds of pinwheel blocks, I came up with my own method for pinning the intersection of the four half- square triangles together.

When I pin a Pinwheel intersection, I like to use 4 pins. I know that sounds like a lot, and most instructions will tell you to use 3 pins, but I get much more accurate results, the first time, with 4 pins. I would rather take the time to pin properly, than have to take the time later to rip it out and try again.Insert the first pin into the intersection of the four triangles, entering through the backside of the top rectangle. Push the pin through the intersection of the four triangles on the bottom rectangle. Make sure the pin remains level in all directions.
The next pin is the extra one that I like to use to stabilize the vertical movement of the seams Place this one about ¼” below the first pin, but parallel to the upper cut edges of rectangle. Now place 2 pins inside the seam allowance on both sides of the seam and parallel with the seam. These two stabilize the horizontal movement of the seams. Now remove the first pin that was inserted through the intersection. Sew the seam.

This might seem like a lot of effort just to pin a seam together, but if you are particular about points matching, give it a try.

How to Make Two Quarter-Square Triangles

Cut two squares of fabric 1 ¼” larger than the finished size. For example, if you need 3” half-square triangles, cut your squares 4 ¼”. Draw a diagonal line through one square. Stack on top of other square, right sides together. I first pin the outside corners together. Then I pin the other two corners. When sewing a bias (or diagonal) most directions will tell you to be careful to not stretch the bias. But when you sew ¼” on both sides of the drawn line, what really happens, is that the stitch draws the fabric up and shortens the stitching line. A “not to square” square results when you cut the square apart on the drawn line.
If I find that that is happening (it happens a lot with very fine fabrics), I will use a piece of cheap tissue paper as a stabilizer under the fabric at the stitching line. Just sew right through it. It tears off easily. Cut apart on the drawn line and you will have two half-square triangles. Press to one side.
Place one half–square triangle on top of other one, right sides together, with fabrics on top of opposite colors. Draw a diagonal line crossing the previous stitching line. Stitch ¼” on both sides of drawn line. Cut apart on drawn line. Press seam to one side.

How to Make Two Half-Square Triangles

I don’t like to square up blocks anymore than I have to. It’s tedious work, and it wastes fabric. Don’t get me wrong, there are times when it is necessary. But if I don’t have to do it, I am happy not to. This method works most of the time. Just be accurate in your seam allowance. Make one or two squares first to check out your finished size. Make adjustments in your seam allowance if needed. Just one thread width can make a difference.

Cut two squares of fabric ⁷/₈” larger than the finished size. For example, if you need 3” half-square triangles, cut your squares 3 ⁷/₈”. Draw a diagonal line through one square. Stack on top of other square, right sides together. I first pin the outside corners together. Then I pin the other two corners. When sewing a bias (or diagonal) most directions will tell you to be careful to not stretch the bias. But when you sew ¼” on both sides of the drawn line, what really happens, is that the stitch draws the fabric up and shortens the stitching line. A “not to square” square results when you cut the square apart on the drawn line.

If I find that that is happening (it happens a lot with very fine fabrics), I will use a piece of cheap tissue paper as a stabilizer under the fabric at the stitching line. Just sew right through it. It tears off easily. Cut apart on the drawn line and you will have two half-square triangles. Press to one side.